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Volume 59, Issue 2, Pages 123-128 (August 2010)


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Structural and functional differences in barrier properties of African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin

Neelam Muizzuddina, Lieveke Hellemansb1, Luc Van Overloopb, Hugo CorstjensbCorresponding Author Informationemail address, Lieve Declercqb, Daniel Maesa

Received 21 July 2009; received in revised form 7 June 2010; accepted 14 June 2010.

Abstract 

Background

Differences in structural and functional skin characteristics have been linked with ethnical background. But racial differences in skin have not been thoroughly investigated by objective methods and the data are often contradictory.

Objectives

This study was undertaken to compare skin barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum on African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin by objective measurements.

Methods

Baseline values of trans epidermal water loss were collected on the face. Consecutive stratum corneum D-squame® tape strippings were collected on the panelist's ventral forearm and face to evaluate skin barrier strength and cohesion. Stratum corneum ceramides, maturation, measured as the transglutaminase-mediated cross-linking of stratum corneum proteins, and stratum corneum trypsin like enzyme activity were measured on the D-squame® tape strippings.

Results

East Asian and to some extent Caucasian skin was characterized by low maturation and relatively weak skin barrier. African American skin was characterized by low ceramide levels and high protein cohesion in the uppermost layers of the stratum corneum. These data can be interpreted in terms of the high prevalence of xerosis in black skin and increased skin sensitivity in East Asian skin.

Conclusion

These results demonstrate that skin properties at the level of the stratum corneum vary considerably among these ethnic groups. This contributes to an improved understanding of physiological differences between these study populations.

a Estée Lauder Companies, Research Park, Melville, NY, USA

b Estée Lauder Companies, Oevel, Belgium

Corresponding Author InformationCorresponding author at: Estée Lauder Companies, Biological Research Department Europe, Nijverheidsstraat 15, 2260 Oevel, Belgium. Tel.: +32 14 25 89 04.

1 Current address: Katholieke Hogeschool Kempen, Vorselaar, Belgium.

PII: S0923-1811(10)00195-7

doi:10.1016/j.jdermsci.2010.06.003


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