Abstract
Background
α-Hydroxy acids (αHAs) are reported to reduce signs of aging in the skin and are widely
used cosmetic ingredients. Several studies suggest that αHA can increase the sensitivity
of skin to ultraviolet radiation. More recently, β-hydroxy acids (βHAs), or combinations
of αHA and βHA have also been incorporated into antiaging skin care products. Concerns
have also arisen about increased sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation following use
of skin care products containing β-HA.
Objective
To determine whether topical treatment with glycolic acid, a representative αHA, or
with salicylic acid, a βHA, modifies the short-term effects of solar simulated radiation
(SSR) in human skin.
Methods
Fourteen subjects participated in this study. Three of the four test sites on the
mid-back of each subject were treated daily Monday–Friday, for a total of 3.5 weeks,
with glycolic acid (10%), salicylic acid (2%), or vehicle (control). The fourth site
received no treatment. After the last treatment, each site was exposed to SSR, and
shave biopsies from all four sites were obtained. The endpoints evaluated in this
study were erythema (assessed visually and instrumentally), DNA damage and sunburn
cell formation.
Results
Treatment with glycolic acid resulted in increased sensitivity of human skin to SSR,
measured as an increase in erythema, DNA damage and sunburn cell formation. Salicylic
acid did not produce significant changes in any of these biomarkers.
Conclusions
Short-term topical application of glycolic acid in a cosmetic formulation increased
the sensitivity of human skin to SSR, while a comparable treatment with salicylic
acid did not.
Keywords
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Article info
Publication history
Published online: July 12, 2010
Accepted:
March 18,
2009
Received in revised form:
March 16,
2009
Received:
January 27,
2009
Footnotes
☆The mention of commercial products, their sources, or their use in connection with material reported herein is not to be construed as either an actual or implied endorsement of such products by the Department of Health and Human Services. The opinions and/or conclusions expressed are solely those of the authors and in no way imply a policy or position of the Food and Drug Administration.
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Copyright
Published by Elsevier Inc.
